Back in Raleigh, one night while watching TV, MM and I flipped over to Food Network and all we see is a huge piece of lasagna and a huge meatball at the Mulberry Italian Ristorante. Our mouths watered instantly. Where in this great country could we get this lasagna and meatball? We hit the info button on the TV, and it simply says New York. We assume that it's somewhere downstate near New York City (sidebar: Buffalo is not close to NYC - about 8 hours...I lived closer to the City when I lived in Virginia.) When I pull up the website to get the address, I'm amazed. It's in Lackawanna, NY. LACKAWANNA?
Lackawanna, NY is an immediate southern suburb of Buffalo, which is a blue-collar town with a Ford plant and old steel mills, so hearing there is a culinary gem in there is quite surprising. The restaurant opened back in 2005 and changed to an Italian format a year later. So on my most recent trip back home, I was tasked with choosing where to go for family dinner. No question - I needed to try this place. Fortunately, my family had dined here before, but was limited on the menu since it was lent (no meat), so they were as excited as me.
We navigate through a quaint neighborhood that runs up against one of the old steel mills (coincidentally, one of my good friends grew up in that neighborhood) and we find Mulberry - a little corner restaurant with a black awning. We head in and the restaurant is long and narrow, with some old Yankee Stadium chairs as a waiting area. The walls are painted a deep red, covered in pictures of the Rat Pack, New York City, and New York and Buffalo sports memorabilia.
The menu has an ample selection of Italian favorites - pasta, chicken, eggplant. The lasagna is their speciality - the beautiful thing about it is that it changes daily. The night we were in there, it was a 3 meat lasagna, made with beef, shredded pork and italian sausage. My sister and her fiancee were both set on getting that, so I knew I could snatch a bite of the house specialty. But I wanted the other house specialty - the meatball.
The meatball comes with select entrees or can be an appetizer. Right - one meatball as an appetizer. So I choose for my entree the Gnocchi di Ricotta Fatto in Casa - homemade ricotta filled gnocchi, which comes with the meatball. The soup of the day is a Banana Pepper Bisque, which sounds amazing, so I have to partake in that as well.
The soup had more heat than I was expecting, but it is served with a piece of fresh bread, that helped cut the heat. Super creamy and super flavorful. But this still did not prepare me for my entree....when it arrives, I'm amazed at the size of the meatball. It's the size of my fist!
The meatball is huge and packed with great flavor. But the gnocchi was easily the best I've ever had. Usually gnocchi is rather dense, but each dumpling was so light and the ricotta was so incredibly fresh. Simply to die for. I flew back to Raleigh the next day, and brought my leftovers home with me so MM (who is Sicilian and picky on his Italian) could try, and I received these two texts:
"I had the gnocchi. Oh Dear."
"That meatball is not fair."
My sister and her fiancee get the full size portion lasagna (mainly so he could have leftover lasagna for lunch the next day...), and blown away at the size - a full size portion is easily 3-4 portions anywhere else.
I'm not a huge meat lasagna fan, but I really enjoyed this, especially the shredded pork inside, since it's a texture not usually seen in lasagnas. The cheese again was so light and fluffy that this didn't seem like a weight in your stomach. My sister barely put a dent in this, much to the delight of her fiancee, since he was the benefactor of lunch the second day.
I did save room for dessert, since my sister's fiancee talked about the cannolis all weekend. The standard cannoli has a citrus ricotta filling, but I opted for the nutella cannoli, topped with pistachios. Simply heavenly. When you reach the bottom of your dessert plate (after you've licked it clean), the proprietors' humor comes out with a message on the plate.
The only big mistake with Mulberry is that I hadn't been there sooner. MM is already planning his trip back home to drive to Lackawanna. There was a jingle back in the 80's for (from what I can remember) a furniture store that said "you're gonna wanna come to Lackawanna....", and you definitely will want to come again and again for an amazing meal.
Mulberry Italian Ristorante
64 Jackson Street
Lackawanna NY 14218
www.worldfamouslasagna.com